September 8 – Taormina: El Teatro Greco

Not yet allowing ourselves to be distracted by Taormina’s charms, we headed directly to the Greek Amphitheater (Teatro Greco).

A tiny tranquil courtyard greets visitors near the entrance to the Teatro Greco.

The Teatro Greco (Greek Theater).

Built in this monumental setting by the Greeks in the 3rd century B.C. and rebuilt by the Romans in 2 A.D., the Teatro Greco now hosts a summer international arts festival featuring film, theater, and music.

Waiting for the show to begin. Ah, here they come…tourists.

We climbed every step and explored every corner of this ancient theater, marveling at its dramatic setting with its world-famous view: the azure sea twinkling below and the smoldering volcano, Mt. Etna, looming in the not-so-distance. The weather, still, was perfect.

Between the theater’s crumbling columns, Giardini Naxos is framed far below
while the horizon is outlined by the hazy blue slope of the sleeping giant, Etna.

The ancient Greeks were brilliant in their decision to place this theater exactly here. As you sit on one of the steep seats of the amphitheater, you not only look down upon the column-flanked stage, but gaze beyond at the fabulous backdrop. What a scene! Today, film and art festivals draw modern crowds to this time-worn semi-circle of stones.

With this spectacular panorama, I would have a hard time keeping
my eye on the performance below.

Incorporating the natural slope of Mount Tauro, the dramatic Teatro Greco
is more famous for its dramatic backdrop: the striking blue of the Ionion Sea
and smoke-belching Mt. Etna.

Porticos and columns punctuate the ancient remains of the Teatro Greco.

At the site of the Teatro Greco, an ancient admonition for “No Smoking”?
I don’t know, since it’s all Greek to me.

To the right, Cape Schiso’ of Giardino Naxos points into the Ionian Sea
while an ancient wall of the Greek Theater looks on.
Pink and white houses of Taormina play audience to the Greek Theater,
regally overlooking this hillside town.

Faces and Vases

Returning to the main street of Taormina, we wandered the profusion of stepped streets and tangled alleys. Wrought iron balconies overhead overflowed with vivid flowers and greenery.

The severity of this Gothic building is tempered by the Arab-Norman windows and fanciful wrought iron balcony. Blue heads survey the scene below.

Keeping a head of the Joneses.

Always one step a head.

You can shop here for “Village Art” — embroidery, gifts, and prancing dogs.

Cafes, boutiques, and art abound in Taormina, many located
in narrow alleys off the main drag. Keep an eye out for them.

The Shops of Taormina

Store windows were themselves works of art, displaying their wares like colorful still-life sculptures: marzipan in every shape and color, creatively stacked shelves of wine, creamy cannoli, fragrant fresh fruit.

The dolci (sweets) of Sicily are renowned. So artfully displayed, you can hardly bring yourself to eat them. But after the first bite, you’re very glad you did. The oblong ones in the left foreground are cannoli, a traditional Sicilian sweet. Meaning “little tubes,” they are filled with mascarpone and blended with other flavorings, often with bits of cherry or other fruit.

It’s hard to remember these are not real fruits. Another Sicilian specialty, marzipan, fills the shop windows of Taormina. Made of sugar and almond paste, these works of art are more fun to look than to eat.

This decorative enoteca and pasticceria (wine and pasta shop) begs entering. We, of course, did.

Advertising marzipan and cannoli, this “Shop of the Good Taster” features typical Sicilian foods, wines, and pasta. Scroll up to the previous picture for a look inside.

Who needs to display art when your wares are just as enticing? Along with the marzipan, a colorful tambourine sits on the top shelf waiting for a folk dance.

Twilight in Taormina

As the evening passegiata down Piazza Umberto bloomed into full-swing, the lights of the town slowly twinkled on.

In the middle of Piazza del Duomo, this 17th century baroque fountain
draws much attention. A crowned female centaur holds the world in one
hand and a scepter in the other while sea creatures spew water from
their mouths. Marble putti support the whole thing.

In the grand Piazza del Duomo toward the other end of town, we came across another bride and groom, joining the stroll in full wedding regalia. Trying to look casual while their camera man ran ahead, they sauntered nonchalantly while he contorted himself to record impressive perspectives of the happy couple.

The bride was seemingly oblivious to the long train of her ivory dress as it dragged behind her over the smooth cobbles of the street. Leaving the newlyweds to their magical night, we went to seek our own.

We found our magic as we came across a bar named Hammareth. It spilled upwards, with little tables perched on each steep step, colorful cushions for sitting, and light supplied by glowing candles. Middle Eastern music spilled out from the inside of the bar. Sold. We settled onto a step midway up and found we had secured a box seat to the human theater flowing past below.

I was transported by the music, being a Middle Eastern music fan. I asked the waitress what it was and learned that it was a compilation that I could purchase at a music shop around the corner. I knew I could easily find it at home, so I held off. But it was one of the first things I did upon returning. North African Groove will always bring me right back to that scene in Taormina.

Playing at the Hammareth Bar in Taormina.

I bravely ordered a grappa (not always known for its smoothness), while Gino ordered a Mojito…and another. (At first sip, I didn’t think I would make it through the shockingly large glass of grappa, however after a few sips, I found no problem in finishing it!)

Done for the night, we picked our way back to the bus station and were soon winding back down to the shore, admiring the lights glittering up and down the coastline as we descended. Another detour due the continuing festa in Giardini Naxos deposited everyone a little further than usual, but the night was warm and we enjoyed the walk. Dinner was at a friendly trattoria along the water. We were amused to see the same musician we had seen at lunch in Taormina, working the evening crowd. Crackling colorful fireworks in the distance topped off the night.